Orchard + Vineyard

Omeg Orchards row spreading with Whatcom spreader

Establishment (bare root): Excavate a planting hole slightly shallower and 2 to 3 times the width of the root structure. Uniformly blend compost with the excavated soil at one (1) part by volume compost to 2-3 parts by volume soil. Ensure roots are pointing down and not curling back towards the surface. Backfill and firm the soil blend around the root system within the planting hole. Always water thoroughly after planting.

Carter Orchards top dress with straw

                                                                   Annual or distressed block treatment: In The Gorge we have seen fruit trees applied at 2-5 tons per acre of trees. Directional spreading in the planting rows has been accomplished with spreaders or trailers and shovels. Some orchardist like to then cover compost with straw for additional moisture retention and wind protection.  Application is most preferable in the fall or secondarily the spring.

Note: The nutrients contained in compost should be considered when applying fertilization. They will typically offset plant nutrient requirements, thereby potentially reducing fertilizer application rates. Ask us for recent lab data.

Compost Benefits in orchard and vineyard production:

• Adds Organic Matter! (typically 40-50% by volume in DH compost)
• Water retention & lateralization (reduced irrigation needs)
• Soil structure, porosity, and density
• Microbiology (bacterial + fungal)
• Buffers soil pH
• Improves Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC)

Veggie + Flower Garden

top dressing an existing bed (my house)

Establishment: Compost should be uniformly applied over the entire area at an average depth of 1-2 inches and then incorporated to a depth of 6-8 inches. Higher application rates of compost may be used if the compost is incorporated to a greater depth. Rake the soil surface smooth prior to seeding or planting. The soil surface should be free of large clods, roots, stones, and other material that will interfere with planting. The amended area should be watered thoroughly after planting.

Mosier Valley Organics compost backfill on asparagus

Lower compost application rates may be necessary for salt sensitive crops (e.g., strawberries),  while higher application rates may be used for plants that require greater amounts of fertility (e.g., tomatoes).

Maintenance: Top dress existing planting beds with 1-2″ of compost ideally in the fall or secondarily the spring prior to planting. Applying in the fall allows nutrients to leach into the soil over the winter months. Click here for a compost use calculator.

Compost Benefits in gardens:

• Adds Organic Matter! (typically 40-50% by volume in DH compost)
• Water retention & lateralization (reduced irrigation needs)
• Soil structure, porosity, and density
• Microbiology (bacterial + fungal)
• Adds fertility and nutrients

Starts and Seeds

Mosier Valley Organics basil starts (this greenhouse is really cool and made from the old automatic doors of a hospital)

This is where people can get the wildest variations. While you can plant directly into our compost (see below) we recommend variation in a seed or potting mix. Peat moss, coconut husks, and bark chips are all great components in a compost seed mix (we hope to have our own next spring). A fluffy and diverse mix will give your seeds a strong start.

A note on thermal compost: We typically perform a sensitive plant bioassay (fancy term for planting from seed) on our compost prior to selling it. We use red clover and cucumber because they are particularly sensitive to “hot compost” and persistent herbicides. So far this season we have not had a failing bioassay on our compost – meaning you are safe to plant need seeds and starts directly into our compost.

Lawns

Establishment: Compost should be uniformly applied over the entire area at an average depth of 1-2 inches and then incorporated to a depth of 6-8 inches using a rotary tiller or other similar equipment. Rake the soil surface smooth prior to seeding, planting or sodding. Plant seed and re-rake to ensure good seed to soil contact. Always seed, plant or sod during the recommended period of time in your region. Water the heck out of new grass seed and keep the water going to ensure good root establishment.

Maintenance: Annual topdressing with a finer grade compost (1/4” – 3/8” screened) is a good maintenance practice on both cool and warm season lawns. This can be done before or after core aeration to reduce compaction and improve moisture holding capacity. Drag or rake compost into the aeration holes. Cool season lawns can be compost topdressed in the early spring or fall. It’s best to apply compost to warm season lawns in the spring just prior to the active growing season. The area should be watered thoroughly after any seeding. Deep and infrequent watering will keep a lawn healthly.

Trees & Shrubs

Establishment: Excavate a planting hole slightly shallower and 2 to 3
times the width of the root ball or container. Set the root ball on firm soil
so that the top of the root ball sits slightly higher than the final grade.
Uniformly blend compost with the excavated soil at one (1) part by volume compost to 2-3 parts by volume soil. Compost with higher amounts of salts and nutrients should be used at lower rates (e.g. 1:3 or 1:4 parts compost to soil). Backfill and firm the soil blend around the root ball within the planting hole. Always water thoroughly after planting. It should be noted that whenever possible, trees and shrubs should be planted in a mass planting bed, where multiple plants are established in a larger amended bed. This technique allows for greater planting success.

Note: plants like azaleas and rhododendrons prefer acidic soils and typically are not happy in a yard debris based compost like ours. 

Maintenance: Apply a coarser compost mulch (1” – 2” screened) over the garden bed to conserve moisture, for weed suppression and/or for aesthetic purposes.  Note: The nutrients contained in compost should be considered when applying fertilization. They will typically offset plant nutrient requirements, thereby potentially reducing fertilizer application rates.

There have been two main reason for increased aroma at our site: the pond, and our compost recipe. The pond builds up organic matter in the bottom, which creates odor as the weather gets warmer. This year, in addition to getting in the bottom ourselves, we hired a water consultant to help drain and deal with the pond odor. We drained the pond on April 30th which we feel did a lot to mitigate its odors. The issue has been that we originally designed the pond as a storm water catchment pond, which we thought it was. We now realize the pond needs to be more of an active water treatment pond. When the weather dries out this summer we will redesign and reconfigure the pond to create a more long-term solution in order to avoid odors, especially in the spring.

The second main odor generator, and what we think is generating aroma, comes from our compost recipe. Since opening about a year and a half ago we have been blending lots of ground yard debris in with the other high nitrogen feedstocks (i.e. fruit, food, and cherry sludge). This creates a good compost recipe and reduces odors from composting food scraps. About 3-4 weeks ago we lost a main source of woody material, which has made our recipe out of the normal balance. The main result is higher odor. We ground up woody yard debris on Monday and have begun blending it back into the recipe, which should make a marked difference. It will take us about two more weeks to blend the woody material back into the remaining compost, which should help mitigate overall odors. If this is not the case, please let us know.

We are thankful to the Port of The Dalles and the entire The Dalles community for supporting our business. Our desire is the be the best neighbors possible and respect others who enjoy this beautiful area. Thank you to everyone who has provided feedback – we appreciate it.

This is an entry-level job with flexible hours. Interested parties should email a letter of interest and one page resume to tyler@dirthugger.com. No phone calls please. 

Skid steers, loaders, excavators, dump trucks – have you operated each of these? If so, we’d like to talk.  We are seeking someone who can streamline material processing, create solutions to heavy construction challenges, and that doesn’t mind coming home covered in dirt. Main tasks will include operating a front-end loader to build compost windrows, move material, and screen finished product. This outdoor position will be active in creating high-end compost, delivering to customers, and any of the million other things that pop up in a given day. Experience with heavy machinery is a must, being mechanically inclined, and interest in working in composting is preferred. Please send letter of interest/resume to pierce@dirthugger.com if interested.

(No phone calls please).

Jim has over ten years experience in farming, and ranching (and even ox droving). He’s equally comfortable running an organic farm, herding 100′s of pigs, managing 5,000 hens,  and building stuff out of reused materials. He’s a hard-working man with boat loads of experience and has been getting things done from day one.  When not knocking out projects at the Black Gold Mine you might catch Jim mtn biking or training for an ultra-marathon.

Kevin is a compost science wizard who came to Dirt Hugger in tow with  his own microscope for soil biological analysis. Armed with a degree in compost and compost tea making Kevin is helping Dirt Hugger push the envelope on healthy growth media. When not “tech’ing” out on compost you might find Kevin snowboarding on the mountain or kayaking the local whitewater.

Last but not least is the addition of a new acre-ish for compost curing. With the shift to Aerated Static Pile technology we felt it necessary to create additional curing space for compost coming off the air system. This space allows Mesophilic stage composting to continue full force and gives us a little breathing room at the site.

Big thanks:

• Everyone who expressed interest and applied to the open position
• Port of The Dalles- the awesomest landlord
• Crestline Construction- who cleared, graded, and compacted nearly an acre in less than a full day’s work

One way we try to beat the wind is by getting up before dawn and starting work before the wind cranks up for the day. We are particularly cognizant of wind on days when we grind yard debris. Grinding involves perching an excavator on top of  a pile of yard debris and loading an 850 horsepower machine capable of turning a four foot diameter tree into four inch wood chips.  On one such day this past summer we snapped a photo of our grinding operations at dawn. Through a last minute email conversation with Dan Sullivan, BioCycle Magazine decided to pick up the photo and run it for the cover shot this month. We are stoked and honored to have the photo run in our favorite composting magazine.

Big thanks to our grinding partners D&Z, Dan Sullivan, Nora Goldstein and the art staff at BioCycle.

Part-time position with Dirt Hugger located in The Dalles, Oregon.  We are seeking someone who is self motivated, hard working, reliable, and doesn’t mind coming home absolutely covered in dirt (room mates, spouses, and significant others might not let you in the house). This outdoor position will be active in receiving feedstock, creating high-end compost, delivering to customers, and any of the million other things that pop up in a given day. Experience with heavy machinery, being mechanically inclined, and interest in working in a green industry is preferred. This is an entry level position with lots of opportunity for growth and advancement within the company. Starting at 20hrs a week, with a flexible work schedule. Please send letter of interest & resume to pierce@dirthugger.com if interested (No phone calls please).

Thanks Crystal Davis Ross for the tip on GC’s.